Installed: 7 January 2004

CHAPTER 19

Westward to Ulster

The anchor heaves, the ship swings free,
The sails swell full. To sea, to sea!
—Thomas Lovell Beddoes

The Royal Utstermam, the night steamer from Glasgow to Belfast, crept slowly down the narrow Clyde River in the lingering twilight of a clear June day. We had boarded the ship early at the quay and from an upper deck watched the loading of cargo and observed the boarding of hundreds of passengers. Whether these folk were Ulsterites returning home from holiday or Scots crossing the North Channel for a visit with friends and relatives made no difference. They were all of the same folk— aside from a small sprinkling of foreign tourists. I hardly felt like a foreigner among them for we Scotch-Irish of America are of the same ancestry as they, the same ideals, the same culture, and largely the same facial features.

We sailed past the great shipyards which line the Clyde. Gantrys loomed like giant’s arms against the sky. All along were ships in various stages of construction, some with bare skeleton-like ribs and others of graceful lines, nearing their launching to ply the seas in world commerce. Among them was the Elizabeth II, soon to be ready to sail. So narrow is the Clyde that ships cannot be launched straight Into the stream but must be built and shoved off at an angle.

Before final darkness fell in the long evening, we were out of the yards and the industrial area; now the river banks were soft and green with trees, pastures, and growing crops. For the first time, I felt the actual locale of the old song, "Roamin’ in the gloamin’ on the bonnie banks of Clyde." There were likely no Houston lads and lassies out there tonight "roamin’ in the gloamin’." They had probably gone to the "bright lights" of the city.

We had taken the long sea route from Glasgow to Belfast, cruising down the stream, out through the Clyde Firth, passing the paradise-like island of Arran—then crossing the North

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